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Rome - Restaurants & Bars


Parklife

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I'm off to Rome in a few weeks on holiday and would appreciate assistance from the well-traveled TAMB masses. 

We've got our "to-see" list sort of set, so we're sorted on that front but would appreciate recommendations on restaurants and bars, if anyone has any? Would be good to maybe venture to a few of the less touristy eateries/pubs and see a different side of Rome, rather than little but tourists... 

Many thanks. 

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Have been twice this year and loved it. Campo del Fiori is the obvious place for bars and restaurants but where are you staying? Its a big old place. 

Have made the mistake of going to Trastevere twice in daylight and it has looked a complete cowp both times. People then say you have to go at night. Clearly because then you do not notice what a cowp it is. There is a place there called bir + fun which does a variety of beers but has a bit of identity complex. There is a restaurant at the back of a long bar but you have to eat. You can drink at the bar but its only worthwhile if you have a seat as it is a narrow passage. It is often queued out the door but apart from the Irish pubs, its as close as you will get.

I also did a food tour which might appear pricey at 75 euros but everyone I know who went on it thought it was great. You end up off the beaten track and in some very interesting places.

I would also recommend a walk up to the top of the janiculum Hill for a view of Rome which is well worth the effort.

Put up where your hotel is and I might be able to give more pointers

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Thanks for that, great help. All the bars I see recommended are in Tarvestre, as you say. So would be good to see a different bit of Rome in the evening  

Weve rented an apartment on via principe umberto, which is to the southwest of Termini station. 

42 minutes ago, joecraigfanclub said:

Have been twice this year and loved it. Campo del Fiori is the obvious place for bars and restaurants but where are you staying? Its a big old place. 

Have made the mistake of going to Trastevere twice in daylight and it has looked a complete cowp both times. People then say you have to go at night. Clearly because then you do not notice what a cowp it is. There is a place there called bir + fun which does a variety of beers but has a bit of identity complex. There is a restaurant at the back of a long bar but you have to eat. You can drink at the bar but its only worthwhile if you have a seat as it is a narrow passage. It is often queued out the door but apart from the Irish pubs, its as close as you will get.

I also did a food tour which might appear pricey at 75 euros but everyone I know who went on it thought it was great. You end up off the beaten track and in some very interesting places.

I would also recommend a walk up to the top of the janiculum Hill for a view of Rome which is well worth the effort.

Put up where your hotel is and I might be able to give more pointers

Much appreciated! 

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9 hours ago, Parklife said:

Thanks for that, great help. All the bars I see recommended are in Tarvestre, as you say. So would be good to see a different bit of Rome in the evening  

Weve rented an apartment on via principe umberto, which is to the southwest of Termini station. 

I've stayed at a hotel on that street, it backs right on to the south end of Termini. The street itself isn't that great to be honest, but there is a wee park at the top of it (can't remember the name) that is quite nice during the day and which had a few basic cafe bars around it, and there is a Metro station there. We had a really nice meal at a restaurant in the next street across (parallel with Principe Umberto, going away from Termini), can't remember the name.

Ive been going to a place called Trattoria Cadorna for over 25 years, small family run place only about 10-15 minutes walk from there, past Termini, across Piazza della Republica and then Vente Settembre.  Off the beaten track a bit, but a lovely meal. When I first went there it was just locals, but to be honest the last couple of times we've been there were a lot of US and British voices. Still highly recommend it. Not far from you either is the San Lorenzo district which is full of student haunts and lots of good value pizzerias. I'd agree with JCFC that Trastevere is hugely over-rated, full of rich yanks on their gap year spending Daddy's money in my experience. Worth a stroll through it though, and you may like it, many do. The Monti district, roughly the bit between the Colosseum and Termini/Maggiore is a much nicer area full of bars and restaurants, many of the trendy/hipster variety. Testtachio a bit further south and back across the Tiber from Trastevere has a few good bars too, and a lot of late night clubs (although it's a long time since I've been in those). The centre itself is relatively small, and can easily be explored on foot. Restaurants there do tend to be tourist traps. There are a couple of good, authentic ones in the Jewish Quarter (basically one street running from the Tiber towards Argento) that are worth finding though. Again can't remember the names I'm afraid.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Parklife said:

Thanks for that, great help. All the bars I see recommended are in Tarvestre, as you say. So would be good to see a different bit of Rome in the evening  

Weve rented an apartment on via principe umberto, which is to the southwest of Termini station. 

I've stayed at a hotel on that street, it backs right on to the south end of Termini. The street itself isn't that great to be honest, but there is a wee park at the top of it (can't remember the name) that is quite nice during the day and which had a few basic cafe bars around it, and there is a Metro station there. We had a really nice meal at a restaurant in the next street across (parallel with Principe Umberto, going away from Termini), can't remember the name.

Ive been going to a place called Trattoria Cadorna for over 25 years, small family run place only about 10-15 minutes walk from there, past Termini, across Piazza della Republica and then Vente Settembre.  Off the beaten track a bit, but a lovely meal. When I first went there it was just locals, but to be honest the last couple of times we've been there were a lot of US and British voices. Still highly recommend it. Not far from you either is the San Lorenzo district which is full of student haunts and lots of good value pizzerias. I'd agree with JCFC that Trastevere is hugely over-rated, full of rich yanks on their gap year spending Daddy's money in my experience. Worth a stroll through it though, and you may like it, many do. The Monti district, roughly the bit between the Colosseum and Termini/Maggiore is a much nicer area full of bars and restaurants, many of the trendy/hipster variety. Testtachio a bit further south and back across the Tiber from Trastevere has a few good bars too, and a lot of late night clubs (although it's a long time since I've been in those). The centre itself is relatively small, and can easily be explored on foot. Restaurants there do tend to be tourist traps. There are a couple of good, authentic ones in the Jewish Quarter (basically one street running from the Tiber towards Argento) that are worth finding though. Again can't remember the names I'm afraid.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Pool Q said:

I've stayed at a hotel on that street, it backs right on to the south end of Termini. The street itself isn't that great to be honest, but there is a wee park at the top of it (can't remember the name) that is quite nice during the day and which had a few basic cafe bars around it, and there is a Metro station there. We had a really nice meal at a restaurant in the next street across (parallel with Principe Umberto, going away from Termini), can't remember the name.

Ive been going to a place called Trattoria Cadorna for over 25 years, small family run place only about 10-15 minutes walk from there, past Termini, across Piazza della Republica and then Vente Settembre.  Off the beaten track a bit, but a lovely meal. When I first went there it was just locals, but to be honest the last couple of times we've been there were a lot of US and British voices. Still highly recommend it. Not far from you either is the San Lorenzo district which is full of student haunts and lots of good value pizzerias. I'd agree with JCFC that Trastevere is hugely over-rated, full of rich yanks on their gap year spending Daddy's money in my experience. Worth a stroll through it though, and you may like it, many do. The Monti district, roughly the bit between the Colosseum and Termini/Maggiore is a much nicer area full of bars and restaurants, many of the trendy/hipster variety. Testtachio a bit further south and back across the Tiber from Trastevere has a few good bars too, and a lot of late night clubs (although it's a long time since I've been in those). The centre itself is relatively small, and can easily be explored on foot. Restaurants there do tend to be tourist traps. There are a couple of good, authentic ones in the Jewish Quarter (basically one street running from the Tiber towards Argento) that are worth finding though. Again can't remember the names I'm afraid.

 

 

Thanks for that very detailed summary, much appreciated! Had read a bit about San Lorenzo being a more studenty area and had fancied heading there on one of our nights to avoid the tourists and exorbitant prices. Will have a look in to your restaurant recommendation too. Thanks again! 

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We were there last month (with our kids aged 17 and 13) and I slightly disagree with Kevin about Trastevere .

We had an apartment next to the Vatican and they’d suggested this area as still being the old part of Rome and with a mix of street entertainers and street art at night, coupled with more authentic bars and cafes, we found we went there 3 of the 4 nights. Did go during the day and just wandered round the narrow lanes and stopped here and there – we also walked from the Trastevere all the way up to the main part, which has a cracking church (yes I know but its pretty impressive inside), so the area itself covers quite a distance, so I’m sure there will be a few things that’ll catch your eye.
Also on that side of the river, they’ve got a set up (down at the river) where its like marque tents and they sell a range of food/drink, as well as hand craft stuff etc – worth a wee look when you’re there as well.

If not already on your list, make time to go to the Castel Sant'Angelo, which is about a 10 minute walk from the Vatican and overlooking the Tiber – our digs suggested it as its got one of the best views to see Rome – its got a small restaurant up there but not many tables. Get up to the roof and you’ll have a very good vantage point – think we were about €20/€25 for the 4 of us but I think the kids were free.

Not sure if you’ve thought about travelling around but we bought the travel ticket rather than the sightseeing pass (that includes entrance to a few places) – we felt it worked out better value.
 

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Aye well you're from Dundee so anywhere that looks like a cowp must make you feel a home :-)

Dug out some cards I picked up earlier this year. Top place is

Flavio Al Velavevedotto which is in Testaccio and is built into a hill made out of Roman amphora. They estimate there are 93 million broken bits of jugs in the hill. If there any pork dishes on the menu eat them as they all taste fantastic. Also good for deep fried artichokes which are a taste sensation. Roma's original ground is just across the road

Obica- this place is in Campo del Fiori and specialises in local produce all sourced within 50 miles of Rome. The tomato soup is like nothing you have ever tasted. Fantastic pizzas as well using the local cheese. Open till 2am.

Gusto Osteria Formaggeria - really lovely modern restaurant which specialises in cold meats and cheeses. get a plate of the antipasti and you are well set up. Don't go for the tripe like I did as you can put all the tomato sauce on it you like and its still shite.

The place in Trastevere is Bir +Fud

If you are in or around the Monti area look up the Golden Ass or Trattoria Monti. These places feature heavily in every single guide book and article on food in Rome. I have never eaten in them as I have been unable to get a reservation which says a lot.

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